My Audio set up installation(Beware massive photos)

[jethro]

i,m going to do an experiment before i splash out on a multi rca head unit, was thinking if i plug my front components in to the amp alone so have a direct unsplit connection and not use the sub to see if an unsplit signal gives me better quality than split rca,s but because my current head unit rca is for a subwoofer am i going to get the whole experience as if it where a normal multi rca unit?ie a unit with front rear and sub rca outlets. thx

[jethro]

Ok that made a difference , definetly more crisper and defined sound with driect rca connection for eaxh function, so i,m in the market for a dual rca head unit, probably going to go pionner. over the last few days since the replacement of the tweeters i have come to not like the sound and is in fact almost annoying, it is very bright and not relaxing tones,more like fingersnails on a chalkboard effect so once i get a new hu i will look at replacing the front splits for something a little less bright, am trying different positions at the moment with the tweeters but just think thats the way they are, at the moment i have put a couple of layers of foam directly over them in the stock location wich seems to have dulled them from brightness a little bit. i dont like using the treble adjustment as it sounds to dead.

[jethro]

Ok i think i may have just solved my brightness issue, swapping one of the tweeters pos and neg wires seems to have maid a huge difference, will see how it sounds on my 70k round trip to work tonight.

[jethro]

sweet, i got a new head unit with double rcas so going to fit this weekend. pioneer 4150 sd so hopefully will solve the cd quality issues as the sd card takes the data straight from your computer.

[jethro]

WoW! installed the new head unit, what a difference, now i feel like i am getting my moneys worth from the amp and speakers. blown away quite frankly.

[CJ]

good for sorting out the brightness of the tweeters. youve got to have it how you like and everyones different but just remember that is what crossovers and equalizers are for. dont just replace speakers because theyre too clear. your ear may not be used to how music is supposed to sound if youve been in a vehicle with crap system.

[jethro]

I wont need to replace any speakers with the new HU, this thing is awesome, has got more control flexibility than the old head unit and the sound is just completly different.the fronts sounds awesome.I am now attracted to the sound.

[jethro]

hey cool, i just found the subwoofer on button

[jethro]

cool now i found the subwoofer button i think its time to upgrade my speakers if i get closer to my amps rms(speaker handling power) i am going to get better and louder sound quality right?, at the moment my components are only 60wats nominal handling power and my amp is 130 wrms on channel 1 and 2. my current sub is 200 watts and my amps wrms when bridged is 380 watts on channel 3 and 4.
was going to get some 120 rms components and a 400 watt rms sub, this sound better?.

[CJ]

cool now i found the subwoofer button i think its time to upgrade my speakers if i get closer to my amps rms(speaker handling power) i am going to get better and louder sound quality right?, at the moment my components are only 60wats nominal handling power and my amp is 130 wrms on channel 1 and 2. my current sub is 200 watts and my amps wrms when bridged is 380 watts on channel 3 and 4.
was going to get some 120 rms components and a 400 watt rms sub, this sound better?.

Depends on the brand, as to how far you can push them to what they say is their rms.. say you got a crap brand that says they are 100w speakers, youd probaby be able to put 25 through them before they sound like crap.
a mint set of speakers that are 100 rms, you could put 70 through the speakers and theyd be quite happy.
They may all say they're 100rms, but they dont tell you how long you can GIVE them that power before they are a fire hazard!
If youre getting into the idea of having more power, it will cost a bit more.
you should be able to find some of the more mainstream brands, like pioneer or sony or kenwood that have different versions of the "on special" types of quality they seem to push at the general public.
For example the good set of pioneer 6.5 components are around $450.
Same size, 6.5, "pleb" series are only like $160 or so.
All im trying to say is, dont judge a speaker just on what the number is on the front of the box

[jethro]

hey thx for the reply. i was looking at these
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =261588788
and this
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 097766.htm

[CJ]

hey thx for the reply. i was looking at these
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =261588788
and this
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 097766.htm

i realise this may be disheartening....
i would put money on the components NOT being anything like 125rms nominal power handling. i havnt heard of that brand and internet searching doesnt seem to show too much information on what the internals are like.
most newbies will do the same thing...,look at the peak power, half it and believe thats how much power the speakers can happily handle while they drive their first car up the corromandel. (done it, bought the t-shirt, and then bought the new speakers as proof) What are your current components that are 60w nominal? The response ones? These others are probably in the same league, the response ones are just being more honest with what you can expect out of them.
The sub is the perfect example of what i was saying. There are 2 different versions pioneer make, a pleb and a champion series. albeit, the champion series is actually still pretty entry level. that add says its the dvc series but doesnt actually mention the word champion??? From what i can read, its the champion series though... For its cost, id be interested in hearing how it goes... thats a good step from what you did have..and its also able to put a second sub in series off the one bridged channel.

[jethro]

thx for your response, honesty is the best policy, what about these http://www.rapidradio.co.nz/Product-Cat ... ductId=778 . yeah its the response ones wrms at 60 and my amp putting out 130 per channel so probbaly not best suited for my listening style(loud), the sub is ok but think that distorst also at volume and not that loud,not as loud as the guy 2 doors down the road.

[CJ]

thx for your response, honesty is the best policy, what about these http://www.rapidradio.co.nz/Product-Cat ... ductId=778 . yeah its the response ones wrms at 60 and my amp putting out 130 per channel so probbaly not best suited for my listening style(loud), the sub is ok but think that distorst also at volume and not that loud,not as loud as the guy 2 doors down the road.

Those are some just beautiful speakers though...the kind of thing youd put into an expensive rolls royce or something.
so when you think of something that can be made for $40 and sold to people for $150, you can only imagine the shit the cheaps are made of. Dont get me wrong, it never suggest buying something like that. To be honest, youd have to have a really good ear to be able to hear the difference between those and a pair thats $400. its just the craftsmanship you notice really.
If you just want to make a jump in your quality then maybe something like the JVC CSFS6 or maybe the infinity 6010cs. Im quite bias to infinity though. ive always liked their sound. Since the early 90s, infinity have always strived to increase quality product. Even their entry level series have good parts. Things like having a really think, strong rubber around the subs and now using magnesium instead of aluminium in the cone of the speakers creates a punch in their 12" that you cant get out of a 10" in other brands.
If you stay around the $150 - $200 component range then you'll have to accept around 50 or 60 nominal power handling. If you want to go louder...then just put 2 sets of components into each door like im going to.
IF you spend the extra on a set like infinity that truly can handle 100wrms all the time, and you put decent clean power through them, then youd be at such a volume, you wouldnt want to be in the car...youd be getting into a competition level sound. (not that an MR2 is a good competition car...its probably one of the worst you could try and use.)

Ive got a friend with a corolla that has gone through about 3 sets of components spending around $100, then $150 and then $200 before he said...yeah these are better, they dont blow up... He could have just got the good set to start with...it would have only taken another month to save for them.
Ive done similar things with installs, thinking i could just use crap leads or thin wiring. wasting $200 on wiring, mdf board and fuses and other stuff. if id just raised my price to just $300 i wouldnt have had to rip it all out and start again.

[jethro]

yep thats all wise advise and the path i,d like to avoid so have to reconsider my budget.thx for the tips, going to study your suggestions on equipment.those infinitys seem reasonable at $299.