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From what I have read the noise comes through in behind the tweeters. I am trying to make sense of the screws in this area. My left side doesn't make noise but it has the foam block in there which might be the solution. It also seems to have some screws missing? The one number 4 seems to be holding nothing in and doesn't turn any further in. What are the wires to the mirrors for? I didn't think we had heated or power options.
The right one has quite bad wind noise when going over about 70km/hr but seems to have all the screws in place. The original tweeter mounts are both long gone on both sides. At the very least I will chuck some of my dynatmat offcuts over the square holes like in this thread http://mr2.org.nz/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=6706 (picture down the bottom of the link). Thanks for any help.
I have tried to fix this using some polyester insulation but it didn't work. I think sealing it properly with dynamat or similar will help. It's possible that the part the door glass goes up and down in is also part of the problem but I can't confirm this on this model of car. It is an issue on other Japanese cars though.
Screw 1, 2 and 3 hold the mirror to the car. You need these. Screw 1 and 3 also hold the tweeter mounts in.
Screw 4 is an odd one but I suspect it is there to either stop the mirror completely falling out if the 3 screws decide to come undone or more likely an installation aid as you can see the slot it can hook into if the other 3 are not currently installed. As the first 3 are held in with blue Locktite I suspect the later is the case.
Maybe applying Dynamat over the holes from the inside as in your photos will help or removing the mirror and adding something in there. What makes it harder is the wires going through the hole. Once the Dynamat is on the wires are stuck in place.
Thank you! That makes sense. So they undid the tweeter mount on one side and threw the screws away about 15 years ago. But put them back in the other side.... Hopefully I have some suitable replacements in my box of toyota bolts. I think I will shove some foam in the holes and cover it with dynamat.
In terms of wind noise I suspect new belt mouldings will also help keep the window in the right place. I also know the door is a bit saggy so new hinges too and then adjustment, old cars- good fun. That stuff is expensive so I will see how this works. The BGB also shows the rubber seals are replaceable around the window on hard tops.
Sorry I meant the back side of the triangle part where the window slides up and down in at the mirror. Not the rest of the door.
That should work, let us know how you get on as it really is something that is annoying in these cars. I know they are almost 30 years old but everything else seems to hold out wind noise.
I know your car is a G so it won't have folding mirrors but it should have electric mirror adjustment? It's 4 wires for controlling 2 motors.
GDII wrote:Sorry I meant the back side of the triangle part where the window slides up and down in at the mirror. Not the rest of the door.
That should work, let us know how you get on as it really is something that is annoying in these cars. I know they are almost 30 years old but everything else seems to hold out wind noise.
I know your car is a G so it won't have folding mirrors but it should have electric mirror adjustment? It's 4 wires for controlling 2 motors.
This is what I did. First cut some foam to stuff in the hole:
Then dynamat extreme over the top, followed by another sheet of foam, then the tweeter.
I think you are right about the noise, what I did above helped but my main noise is definitely from the lower 5cm of that vertical seal. If I push gently down on it, the noise stops completely. I have no idea how to fix this though as it looks like it is all one solid piece of rubber.
I have ordered the triangle things, both belt moldings, some new tweeter covers and some of those mirror screws. I will post my findings. Hopefully it gets rid of the wind noise but also stops the window rattling around when it is halfway down- apparently this is due to the felt on the belt moldings wearing out.
Window adjustment along with replacement of worn parts such as felt pads and weather strips will solve issue. Adjustment can take a bit of fiddling around as its easy to solve one problem and then create another such as t-top leak.
I never really had much noise but used the dynomat on inside of door and it made the road & tyre noise less noticeable. The biggest change I saw was when I changed to a different type & model of tyre. Surprising the difference between these.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
Thanks Jim. What tyres did you find the best? Unfortunately I am on 16's so I think I am pretty much limited to RE003's which are an awesome tyre from a performance point of view anyway, but I don't know how they stack up in the noise department. Also I saw some of your posts on mr2oc, what do you recommend to keep the belt moldings in good condition? Something to spray or wipe on the vinyl surface?
I am going to rip the interior out next month and dynomat the entire thing with a layer of mass loaded vinyl over the entire floor under the carpet, firewall, under centre console and anywhere else it will fit. I will pull off the plastic liner from the doors and try and cover every hole with the dynomat. I will try and get some patches attached to the inside of the wheel wells, body behind rear speakers, do the inside surface of the outer door skins and maybe a bit on the front "fire wall". I estimate I might be adding 10-12kg so it is definitely not the sort of changes most people will agree with, but it would be nice to hear the stereo better and make long trips a bit more comfortable.
I think a lot of the noise in these cars is from the resonating panels.
Its been a bit hit & miss with the tyre noise but generally the larger the profile the less noise. Can't recall what ones worked the best but did see a remarkable difference between some brands & models. You really notice difference when you have 3 sets of wheels & tyres to use (15,16 & 17") . The road surface and type of chip used resonates different tones into the cab. For some reason there is one road around my town that is always very noisy and its the smoothest of all!
I also did a fair amount of noise suppression with limited success. Used foam mat under the carpet and Fatmat (like Dynomat) on rear firewall, tunnel and door skins. Installed some wool block insulation behind rear speakers and above plastic inner wheel arches. It helped but still have more noise than I'd like.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
On your question about keeping mouldings clean and looking sharp, I use Tyre Shine. Can get at Repco or SC and it does a fantastic job plus lasts the longest. At around $2.50/can its a bargain.
Jim Benck
90 rev 1 parts car
98 rev 5 GT- all the mods
Unfortunately I managed to focus on the carpet but the seals on the car are a lot stiffer, the gap is quite wide and uneven and that window has been down for a week. You can see the seals almost touch on the new piece.
