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Jabeo wrote:Hey bro if you do want to go to 17s I have a spare set 17x7 and 17x8 both 35+ offset that I'm willing to let you borrow or whatever until you find some. They have tyres too. The rear tyres passed wof over a month ago but could do with a change later on this year, fronts are algood tread. Just let me know, am willing to sell for cheap too. Check my thread to see the wheels, they are a 5 spoke Konig villain style (might be legit ones) can't say for sure it's a 205/40R fronts and 235/40R rear set up. Keeps the acceleration and speedo in check as phill will probably tell you
Aww now you've done and got me all interested
PM price? I could rock over and check out this weekend?
If you go for the 17x8 and 17x9 setup at 35 offset just be aware that the front wheels will hit coilovers without spacers if you plan to run them. My wheels sit flush with the rear guard and about 4mm past the guard on the front so spacers will put them out even further meaning I would need to pull guards to have them clear. I have 235’s on the rear that rub on fast corners and big bumps but rolling the guards solved this.
Mrman wrote:If you go for the 17x8 and 17x9 setup at 35 offset just be aware that the front wheels will hit coilovers without spacers if you plan to run them. My wheels sit flush with the rear guard and about 4mm past the guard on the front so spacers will put them out even further meaning I would need to pull guards to have them clear. I have 235’s on the rear that rub on fast corners and big bumps but rolling the guards solved this.
I just got a 17 x 8 / x 9 set up front and rear and was planning to take the 235s from the front and put them on the rear wheel because 255s are rubbing, and the 235s rub on full lock on the front. Guess i may have to roll the guard lip up regardless to be safe lol
Mrman wrote:If you go for the 17x8 and 17x9 setup at 35 offset just be aware that the front wheels will hit coilovers without spacers if you plan to run them. My wheels sit flush with the rear guard and about 4mm past the guard on the front so spacers will put them out even further meaning I would need to pull guards to have them clear. I have 235’s on the rear that rub on fast corners and big bumps but rolling the guards solved this.
I just got a 17 x 8 / x 9 set up front and rear and was planning to take the 235s from the front and put them on the rear wheel because 255s are rubbing, and the 235s rub on full lock on the front. Guess i may have to roll the guard lip up regardless to be safe lol
I’m surprised the 235’s fit under the spring perch what offset and profile are they?
Mrman wrote:I’m surprised the 235’s fit under the spring perch what offset and profile are they?
235/40R17 35+ offset fronts and 255/40R17 35+ offset rears, i will have to take a picture to confirm but im pretty sure the perch has room above the wheel
Mrman wrote:I’m surprised the 235’s fit under the spring perch what offset and profile are they?
235/40R17 35+ offset fronts and 255/40R17 35+ offset rears, i will have to take a picture to confirm but im pretty sure the perch has room above the wheel
I just had 215/40/17’s put on the front same offset and it’s pretty snug
Congratulations on the new ride. I would stick with factory recommended spark plug specs. In my opinion it is only the very modified turbo cars that benefit from colder plugs.
I did coilovers and certification on a previous car. I would never do it again. The ride was not good. Fine for racetrack if you are in to that sort of thing but for road work definitely not at all comfortable. They were German "KW" brand which is well regarded in european circles. Cert was $500 in Hamilton. They failed me initially because the tire shop they used said it was out of spec for the alignment (it actually wasn't, their specs were wrong for the car). So ended up getting adjustable camber arms and 2-3 months later I had a road legal uncomfortable car. Plenty of people have better experiences but I doubt you can beat the koni/ebach combo and it is probably cheaper when you account for the cost of certification.
I got a whole pile of parts from Toyota as you may have seen in my thread. They were very easy to deal with. All the suspension and brake parts were very expensive though. I will be getting those from overseas. Use NZpost youshop to try and beat the very expensive shipping from twosrus, mr2 heaven and prime.
tw2 wrote:Congratulations on the new ride. I would stick with factory recommended spark plug specs. In my opinion it is only the very modified turbo cars that benefit from colder plugs.
I did coilovers and certification on a previous car. I would never do it again. The ride was not good. Fine for racetrack if you are in to that sort of thing but for road work definitely not at all comfortable. They were German "KW" brand which is well regarded in european circles. Cert was $500 in Hamilton. They failed me initially because the tire shop they used said it was out of spec for the alignment (it actually wasn't, their specs were wrong for the car). So ended up getting adjustable camber arms and 2-3 months later I had a road legal uncomfortable car. Plenty of people have better experiences but I doubt you can beat the koni/ebach combo and it is probably cheaper when you account for the cost of certification.
I got a whole pile of parts from Toyota as you may have seen in my thread. They were very easy to deal with. All the suspension and brake parts were very expensive though. I will be getting those from overseas. Use NZpost youshop to try and beat the very expensive shipping from twosrus, mr2 heaven and prime.
Noted for the plugs - I got a set of standard coppers to tide me over.
Unless the suspension really needs attention - I'll find out on Monday - I won't be doing anything for a while. TBH I'll probably go koni/eibach, but that will take time to save for. Probably eibach first... but might need bushings before anything else.
I'm assuming that different coilovers would have different feel? Maybe waaaaaay down the track I'll look into that further.
So I got 2x partially good heater controls, one had pretty good buttons but a broken heater slider, other had worse buttons but working slider.
Very glad to play with one without fear of no longer having one in the car.
They were obviously in much better condition than mine, as my buttons disintegrated at the clips when I pulled them off.
Attachments
autopsy begins (I don't know why this is upside down)
broken slider for the heat control - it locks at the broken bit - not sure if there is supposed to be a screw holding down the slidey part to the ?yardarm, maybe not as it is a snug fit.
Wow, look great. What do people do to those controls to make them like that!
As you are planning, I would replace the bushes, especially the swaybar ones with plenty of lube and the swaybar links. That will probably solve any creaking and slop. Then you have forever to replace springs/shocks, no hurry at all. While you are in there you can assess any play in the ball joints and tie rod ends.
tw2 wrote:Wow, look great. What do people do to those controls to make them like that!
As you are planning, I would replace the bushes, especially the swaybar ones with plenty of lube and the swaybar links. That will probably solve any creaking and slop. Then you have forever to replace springs/shocks, no hurry at all. While you are in there you can assess any play in the ball joints and tie rod ends.
Thanks mate - little mods like this make a big difference
Im just out of the mechanics and got a good pass with not many high priority jobs.
Both front swaybar end links need replacement, as do the rear main swaybar bushings. FL steering boot needs replacement, FR disc nearing EOL, surface rust on the lip front of the fuel tank (under the plastic cover).
it's a 205/40R fronts and 235/40R rear set up. Keeps the acceleration and speedo in check
as phill will probably tell you
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