GDII's 1990 G-Limited

[GDII]

These water pump and coolant bypass pipe nuts and bolts really need a good going over. They might be a little corroded but not really damaged. I should be able to fix these up to look as good as new.

[GDII]

This is the noise filter/suppressor which is a capacitor. It's wired inline with the 12V power to the ignition coils and grounds to the intake manifold. It's there to reduce the amount of RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) from the ignition system. It stops this noise get into the ECU system. Some say it's for the radio and speaker system but it has its own unit for that.

[GDII]

The knock sensor. Part number 89615-12080.
It had some yellow paint on it that I didn't like so buffed it off. It's a stainless steel body so polished up that too.

[GDII]

Time to finish cleaning this intake manifold. I have stripped all the fittings off it ready for refurbishment.

The inside isn't actually too bad. The outside had already been cleaned on the back, just not the front.

[GDII]

Hot water and a decent cleaner worked well. I didn't manage to get right inside to clean the whole lot out but it's sufficient for now. The outside will get some proper treatment to look fresh.

[GDII]

The turbo oil feed and drain pipe assembly. After 25 years the rubber hose joining to the sump drain has gone a bit hard where oil has contacted it but also split under the hose clamp where the rubber is softer. I have a new one for this. The part number is listed further back in my posts. Go find it people!

The aluminium drain will be made good again and the pipe will get a good soak in a degreaser to clear the lines out.

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[GDII]

This is what all the cleaning has been for. I picked up this 10 litre Jane Kits zinc plating kit out of Australia so I could redo all the zinc plating on my hardware and brackets.

Yes I could have sent them all to a platers for significantly cheaper but then if I gave them all my bolts in a bag I'd never be able to find where they all go back in. So this way I can do small batches of each part or set of hardware as required without losing track of them. I can also select the colour I want to plate each part. I have the option of 3 passivate colours, gold, silver/blue and olive drab with black also able to be obtained. This is going to be very satisfying getting it all done myself.

[GDII]

The 10 litre kit comes with 4x zinc anodes. You put some stainless wire around them ready for hanging off the aluminium bars that will go into the plating bath.

[GDII]

I picked up this sealed 12 litre container to create the zinc plating bath in. The kit comes with zinc powder to create the electrolyte bath as well as a KL solution to assist the process. I'm not sure what the KL solution is but it's to be used. Then you can add in a TMA brightener that makes the zinc shiny when plating. I didn't initially put this in the bath as I wanted to test what would happen first. More on that later.

Mixing it all with distilled water to make up 10 litres. not adding everything to 10 litres or you make too much and the ratios are wrong.

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[GDII]

The kit comes with an adjustable power supply. Trick is to set it to 16.5V max that can do up to 5A and leave it. You adjust the amperage and it adjusts the voltage for you. This works, as I will show later on. Read everything included in the kit and you can't go wrong. The amperage level you set is dictated by the surface area of the part you are plating. 1 AMP per 160cm2 approx.

[GDII]

First step was to degrease and strip a few test parts using acid or CRC Evaporust. You have to remove all traces of oils, oxidation and old zinc before you can plate the parts.

The bracket you see here was full on rust due to the heat of the exhaust it was bolted to. Bringing it back to bare steel looks good.

[GDII]

Next step, put it through the Parts Wash solution from Jane Kits. This removes any oils from handling it. Once it goes through here do not touch it with your bare hands as oils can transfer to the part and cause issues.

[GDII]

Put the part through a distilled water bath 1 to remove the Parts Wash, then through a second water bath to fully wash it.

[GDII]

Next step is to setup the plating bath electronic parts. Power supply, positive aluminium bars, bridge wire and parts hanging negative bar.

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[GDII]

Initial testing failed. I sort of expected something not to go write as the bath temperature was 15c which is the very coldest to could work at. You can see the zinc is all streaky and patchy and stains all over with lots of residue left on the bracket and bolts. A good learning experience.

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