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The new heater return hose and clamps installed. It's great to have all new hoses on the bay to finish off the look but also the old ones are crusty as inside.
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The new heater feed hose and clamps going on. It's a very tight fit for this hose. It very much feels like this is an afterthought design by Toyota. It works but...
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A thorough job, thoroughly well done!
The bell mouth will sound awesome. I know you’re probably against it, but please give us some sound clips of no bov, a demonstration in dose. Just for research purposes
In the shed: 91 MR2 G-Limited, 95 Subaru Impreza WRX
In the front of the shed: 95 Corolla
In the driveway: 00 Subaru Legacy Lancaster
In the rear view: 87 Honda Prelude, 94 Nissan Serena, 04 Swift
~ 4 Runs ~
It's boost gauge time! And yes, that is an NZ new 260kph speedo! Although the mechanism is nothing special as the USDM and UKDM ones that read MPH is the same scale. The JDM is 180kph only so a different scale.
The tacho is a stock JDM NA unit. Yes, the 3SGE revs to 7k for you USDM guys.
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A thorough job, thoroughly well done!
The bell mouth will sound awesome. I know you’re probably against it, but please give us some sound clips of no bov, a demonstration in dose. Just for research purposes
Thanks man!! It's been quite a journey.
Yes a wee bit against it however the GEN1 3SGTE in the ST165 Celica and even the ST185 Celica didn't have BOVs from factory so....
So, watch this space! A few more posts and you'll see.
There will definitely be more video and sound clips coming. I'll post on Instagram but might load things to Youtube eventually when I get more into video creation and actaully have a running car.
Time to fit the OMORI boost gauge into the SW20 cluster.
@bobmr2 and @bitingantz have some good YouTube videos on how to do this. I'm approaching it in a slightly different manner. Of course I would...
Remove the existing voltmeter. It worked but it never really gave accurate information. I now have a digital one to replace it that actually has numbers and works so no loss here.
I want to centre the gauge without taking any material out of the black surround.
Next post will show what I did.
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I made the decision to hack at my cluster to fit the boost gauge how I wanted it. Using a drill with an abrasive wheel on it I removed material to make it fit. Now it will centre. However you do need to reconstruct the tubes so that light from the main 4 cluster back lights doesn't bleed into the indicator holes making them permanently on.
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Fitting the OMORI boost gauge into the SW20 cluster. It is centred now. Time to glue it in place after fitting the wiring plugs to the back.
I'll be wiring it up in a different way to make it as part of the cluster. I've already wired the boost sensor onto the engine harness and utilising a redundant wire that goes from the ECU to the gauge cluster. I just need to do some slight adjustments and it will work. At least the theory is sound on how it should work. Will only know when it's all finished.
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This is what the fitment looks like without taking out any material of the white frame behind the cluster. It sits down too far and the needle can hit the black surround. The second photo shows it with the frame modified and the gauge sitting centred.
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